Ball
Python

General Care of Ball Python
(Python regius)
by Erica Mede, CVT
Photos and health by Susan Horton, DV
select Photos by Melissa Borden

Description
Due to the moderate size and relatively easy going
temperament of this species, the Ball python also called the Royal
python, has become one of the most popular snakes, if not
reptiles, in the pet industry. The variation of color and pattern
(called, morphs) created by selective breeding in the reptile
industry has only helped to rocket their popularity. Ball pythons
typically grow between 2-5 feet (6 feet is not uncommon anymore)
in length and live 20-30 years with good husbandry. This slender
necked but stocky bodied snake is generally identified as tan
blobs on a dark brown or black background with white. Typically,
the belly is white with or without darker speckled patterns. This
is normal for "wild" coloration or "normal".
Even though these snakes are technically considered part of the
"giant snake" category they are an exceptional snake for
those that want the all the features of a python but without the
intimidating length.
Picture by Melissa Borden
Natural History
Ball pythons are found throughout western and central
Africa with most of the populations concentrated in Ghana, the
Ivory Coast, Ghana, and Togo. Generally, these snakes are found in
the savannah grasslands and termite mounds (where they frequently
hide to shed and escape oppressive heat). Cultivated areas also
house large amounts of these harmless serpents as the rodent
population is generally large. In its natural territory they are
both revered as deities and slaughtered on sight as
"venomous" snakes. In Ghana, this serpent is worshiped
and even protected. Throughout its natural habitat, these snakes
are captured for the meat trade, the pet trade, and even the
leather industry.

Enclosure
There are many different ways to keep Ball pythons,
as with any snake. These primarily terrestrial snakes require more
floor space in their cages. Adults can be housed in Neodesha,
large plastic containers, and vision cages. Vision cages are the
best for monitoring, humidity support, and ample room for
maneuvering.
Adults can also be kept in a minimum 30 gallon tank
but larger is always better with these snakes. Custom enclosures
are encouraged and should be at least 3 feet long, 2 feet wide,
and 18 inches high. Hatchlings and very young snakes tend to do
better in smaller areas such as 10-20 gallon tanks or plastic
shoe/sweater boxes with appropriate ventilation. Ventilation can
be added to plastic enclosures via a soldering iron or a drill.
Substrate
Ball pythons can be housed on newspaper, butcher
paper, paper towel, or reptile carpet for ease of cleaning. Aspen
can also be used as long as the aspen is large in size, agitated
daily and bedding is changed weekly. However, if a particulate
bedding is used it is advisable to feed in a separate container to
avoid accidental ingestion of bedding. Never use pine or cedar
shavings as the aromatic oils are irritating to snakes.

Cleaning
Dilute bleach water (1:30) is a useful disinfectant for cages
and artificial turf. All organic matter needs to be washed away
prior to using the dilute bleach. The bleach solution should be
left on for 10 minutes before washing off.
Substrate
Ball pythons can be housed on newspaper, butcher
paper, paper towel, or reptile carpet for ease of cleaning. Aspen
can also be used as long as the aspen is large in size, agitated
daily and bedding is changed weekly. However, if a particulate
bedding is used it is advisable to feed in a separate container to
avoid accidental ingestion of bedding. Never use pine or cedar
shavings as the aromatic oils are irritating to snakes.
Temperature and Humidity
The ambient temperature in the enclosure is more
consistent with what people believe to be a temperate snake than a
tropical snake. The temperatures should range from 82-88 °F with
a basking spot maintained at 88-92°F. Any higher than 92°F and
these snakes develop serious health issues and can die. These
temperatures should be maintained with a thermostat and monitored
with two thermometers ideally. One thermometer should be placed on
the warm end an inch above the substrate and the other an inch
above the substrate on the cool end of the enclosure. Under tank
heaters, heat cable (outside the enclosure not in the enclosure),
heat tape, and ceramic heat emitters can all be utilized to
maintain air temperature.
Humidity should be maintained at 50-60% to keep this
species healthy as they do poorly in low humidity. Ball pythons in
shed should be offered a higher humidity around 70% to ensure that
the shed is complete and the spectacles are not retained.
Accessories
Cage accessories should consist of at least one hide
box in the enclosure. Hides can be as simple as a half a flower
pot, half log, or as complicated as a rock structure (make sure it’s
well anchored). Low branches for climbing are encouraged for this
species especially when they are young and are wonderful for
enrichment. The addition of hay or dried leaves offers new scents
for the snake to explore. Also, adjusting the cage furnishings
once in a while is recommended for enrichment.

Lighting
Ball pythons are nocturnal by nature and do not
require intense lighting despite their natural habitat during the
day. However, it is recommended that a 2.0 ReptiSun UVB bulb be
offered during the day light portion of the light cycle but is not
essential to the keeping of these reptiles. All snakes can absorb
the calcium from their whole prey for their own use but a UVB bulb
still offers some health benefits as well as promotion of natural
behaviors from the UVA being emitted.
Feeding
In the wild, these snakes feed primarily on small
rodents especially Spiny mice. In captivity however, most are fed
mice and smaller rats although the largest of them have been known
to eat large rats. The prey should be humanely euthanized using
acceptable methods. Frozen prey should be used within six months
of freezing. A separate feeding cage is recommended so the snake
associates the cage with feeding and not your hand. Ball pythons
are nighttime feeders. It is highly recommended to feed only
pre-killed prey as live prey can severely injure or kill a snake.
Chicago Exotics recommends feeding properly thawed frozen rodents.
Young snakes are generally fed semi adult mice to
small young rats ("crawlers") every 5-7 days. Generally, they should be fed prey items no larger than their
girth at mid-body. Juveniles should be fed the appropriate sized
rodent (s) weekly. As they reach adulthood it is acceptable to
decrease the feeding interval to every 10-14 days. Adults
are fed small to large rats every 7-14 days to maintain a healthy
weight. These snakes can become obese if their intake isn’t
monitored

Reproduction
Sexing can easily be accomplished by probing. Juveniles may be
sexed also by manual eversion of the hemipenes. Either technique
should be performed by an experienced person or reptile
veterinarian, since poor technique may result in injury.
Generally, females probe a distance of 2-4 subcaudal scales and
males 8 or more. Males have larger cloacal spurs and longer tails
than females. Sexual maturity occurs between 2 and 4 years of age,
if appropriately fed and maintained.
Breeders begin cycling in either mid-September through
mid-November. Eggs are usually laid from mid-February through
beginning of April. Ball Pythons are not fed for two weeks prior
to cooling. The temperature is gradually decreased to 75 F. Some
breeders keep the snakes at their preferred daytime high
temperature during this period, but drop the nighttime low to 75
F. It is possible to utilize a combination of these two
techniques. Monitor the snakes carefully for evidence of
respiratory disease. Respiratory infection is most likely if the
snakes are not provided a basking spot in their preferred
temperature range for at least part of the day and, because of
this, the first technique is not recommended. Depending upon the
breeder, males are introduced to females either at the beginning
of, during, or after cycling. Active courtship precedes
copulation. Eggs are usually laid in burrows or well placed
sweater boxes with moistened vermiculite and peat moss inside.
Usual clutch size is six or seven eggs. Incubation time is about
three months.
Medical Problems
Good husbandry is the best way to prevent many problems. Ball
Pythons should be quarantines for at least three to six months
before being added to an established collection.

Respiratory tract disease is very common in captive snakes.
Difficulty breathing, discharge from the mouth, and wheezing are
common signs associated with respiratory tract disease.
Pictured above is a snake with horrible stomatitis and
pneumonia. You can see the inflammatory debris crusted in his
mouth. The head up, open mouth position is typical for a
severely compromised patient. This snake needs help ASAP.
Vomiting/regurgitation is a common sign of many problems.
Inadequate temperature, excessive feeding, and handling after
feeding are common causes. There are many medical causes for
vomiting/regurgitation and a reptile veterinarian should be
sought.
Snake mites are very common external parasites. The mites may
cause significant disease and distress to an infested snake.
Many Ball Pythons are wild caught and usually harbor
significant internal parasite loads. An annual fecal exam by an
experienced reptile veterinarian is recommended.
Other common signs of problems include loss of appetite, loose
stools, difficulty shedding, and lumps/bumps. A competent reptile
veterinarian should be sought out to diagnose and treat any of the
disorders that may affect your python. Pictured below is a serious
burn along the ventrum of the snake. Heat pads used without
thermostatic control often lead to this problem. Seek
immediate help if you find this problem with your snake!

Speak with your reptile veterinarian about Salmonella and what
measures are recommended to limit the risk or transmission to
people.
If you have any questions, please feel free to call us at
847-329-8709.
Sources and Recommended Reading
The Art of Keeping Snakes Philippe De Vosjoli
The New Encyclopedia of Snakes Christopher
Mattison
Living Snakes of the World John M. Merirtens
Ball Pythons: Habitat, Care, and Breeding Stefan
Broghammer
The Complete Ball Python: A Comprehensive Guide to
Care, Breeding, and Genetic Mutations Kevin McCurley
Ball Pythons: A Complete Guide to Regius Colette
Sutherland

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