Hamsters
are rodents that were initially introduced into the United States for
research purposes and have gained popularity as pocket pets. The Syrian
hamster, which originated in Rumania, Bulgaria, and Asia Minor includes
the common reddish brown hamster and the longhaired teddy bear hamster
and the smaller, darker brown Chinese hamster.
Hamsters have cheek pouches used to transport and store food and
to conceal a newborn litter when danger is present. Hamsters have hip
glands, which are dark raised spots located on either flank or hip area.
These glands secrete material used to mark its territory. These glands
should not be confused with tumors. The life span is relatively short,
18-24 months and usually the males live longer than the females. Sexual
maturity occurs at 6-8 weeks of life with pregnancy lasting 15 days.
Litter size is 6-8 pups. Newborns are hairless, blind and have closed
ears. Hair begins to grow at 8 days of age, pups can eat solid food at
7-10 days of age, eyes open at 1-15 days old and weaning is complete at
21-25 days old. Lack of experience in first time mothers and
environmental disturbances may cause a hamster to eat its newborns.
Diet:
The natural diet consists of seeds and plant materials, however as pets,
hamsters do very well on a pelleted diet or rodent chow formulated for
rats and mice. A seed or a
seed/dried-vegetable mix, should not be fed as the primary diet but is
fine as a treat. Fresh
vegetables can be fed in small amounts.
Greens fed in small quantities. Sudden dietary changes may result
in intestinal upsets and diarrhea which can be severe and may result in
death of the pet. Hamsters
carry food in their cheek pouches causing the pouches on either side of
the face to bulge. They also hide food in their nest to eat at a later
time.
Housing:
Wire cages, aquariums and plastic habitats (Habitrails) may be used for
a home for your hamsters. Each cage should provide a safe escape proof
home for your pet. Doors and
tops should be well secured to prevent escape. The cage should be well
ventilated to allow flow of fresh air to help prevent the build up of
odor from urine, feces and spoiled food. Most hamsters will drink from a
water bottle secured to the side of the cage with a lick spout to drink
and to reduce spillage. The food bowl and water bottle should be cleaned
daily and fresh food and water should be supplied daily.
Cages should be cleaned at least on a weekly basis. Depending on
the size of the cage and the number of hamsters housed in the cage, it
may need to be cleaned more frequently. If the cage has an odor of urine
or feces then it needs to be cleaned. Constant exposure of your pet to
unsanitary conditions is unpleasant for the pet and can result in
infections of the skin, eyes and respiratory
tract. Dilute chorine
bleach (1 part bleach to 10 parts water), is effective for sanitizing a
cage. After cleaning with bleach solution, the cage should be rinsed
thoroughly to remove all bleach residue. Do not use cedar or pine
shavings as bedding. These
woods contain aromatic oils that are very irritating to the skin and
mucous membranes of the eyes, nose, throat and lungs.
Safe bedding materials include recycled newspaper bedding, aspen
shavings, hay and plain white unscented toilet paper or paper towels.
Behavior:
Hamsters are nocturnal (active at night) and may bite if awakened
suddenly. Hamsters do not have good eyesight therefore the owner
should always speak to the hamster before picking it up.
This gives the hamster some warning that it is going to be
touched and reduces the likelihood of you being bitten. The approach
from above often triggers a defensive response. The hamster may flip
onto its back and try to bite. The teeth are needle like and the bite
can be painful, especially to a child. To pick up your hamster, cup your
hands around it. Some will
nip when picked up no matter what. In
these cases, you can use a paper-towel tubes to slide over the hamster,
then slide the hamster out the other end onto your hand. Hamsters are
nocturnal animals which means they spend a lot of their daylight time
sleeping and are more active at night. They enjoy running on an exercise
wheel or you may use the clear plastic exercise balls sold for this
purpose.
DISEASES
AND MEDICAL CARE
Grooming:
Hamsters do not require bathing. They should keep themselves clean
with self grooming. Occasionally, and especially as they get
older, they may require toenail trimming. This toenail over growth
can also be a sign of liver disease. Consult your veterinarian if
your hamster's toenails suddenly start growing very fast. Some of
the longer haired varieties may require combing and trimming of the fur
at their rumps.
Sniffling,
wheezing, sneezing, runny nose: These signs are typical of upper
respiratory tract (sinus) disease. Common causes include bacterial
infections, allergy, irritation due to inhalation of smoke, fumes or
odors from cedar/pine shavings. Do not use cedar or pine shavings as
bedding. These woods
contain aromatic oils that are very irritating to the mucous membranes
of the eyes, nose, throat and lungs.
Safe bedding materials include recycled newspaper bedding, aspen
shavings, hay and plain white unscented toilet paper or paper towels.

Hair
loss: Hair loss may be caused by skin parasites, bacterial
infections, fungal disease, and allergic reactions to bedding, in
particular cedar/pine chips. Hamsters are very sensitive to the aromatic
oils in cedar and pine. Constant
contact with these substances can result in hair loss, cracked, dry
skin, secondary bacterial infections and in severe cases, death.
Wet
tail, Diarrhea, Proliferative enteritis: Diarrhea can result from
feeding your hamster a new type of vegetable, an unusually large
quantity of fresh vegetables or any sudden change in diet even to a new
type of pellet. Long-haired and teddy bear hamsters seem more at risk to
develop wet tail. Signs include: matting of fur around the tail, hunched
stance, irritability, dehydration, thin, and watery diarrhea. If your
hamster develops diarrhea after a diet change, stop feeding the new diet
item immediately to see if the problem clears up. Regardless of the
cause of the diarrhea, if more than a day passes and your hamster still
has diarrhea, contact your veterinarian. Diarrhea is a very serious
problem. It doesn't take long for a small animal to dehydrate.
If your hamster develops diarrhea after he has been started on
any type of medication this can mean that the medication is killing the
normal (good) bacteria in the intestine. Contact your veterinarian right
away. In many cases, feeding
small amounts of live culture yogurt while your hamster is on medication
can reduce the chance of this occurring. Diarrhea can dehydrate and kill
a small animal very quickly. Clinical
signs of dehydration include: dull, sunken eyes, slow movements, very
concentrated urine (dark color and strong odor) and a skin tent i.e.
pinch the skin on the top of the head or the back of the neck-if the
skin stays puckered up in a roll and doesn’t quickly flatten out then
your hamster is dehydrated. Contact
your veterinarian; dehydration can be corrected by giving fluids by
injection under the skin.
Fighting:
Hamsters can be very territorial and may fight among themselves.
This can be a problem when introducing a new hamster to an existing
group. In addition, female hamsters may attack their own babies or the
babies of another hamster. It is also common for the male hamster to
attack its offspring. Female hamsters and their babies should be
provided with a nest box or separated from the other hamsters when
babies are present. Fighting
adults should be separated. Bite
wounds can be mild or severe. Any wounds should be cleaned with dilute
Betadine (antiseptic solution) and your veterinarian contacted. Do not
apply topical antibiotic preparations without first consulting your
veterinarian. Some of these products may be toxic to your pet if they
are ingested while grooming or cleaning of the wound. Bites from cats or
dogs should be considered serious even if they seem mild.

Bumps
and lumps: Cheek pouches filled with food (swelling on either side
of the face in the cheek area) may appear as abnormal growths to the
casual observer. This is a
normal behavior for your pet. However,
hamsters often develop swellings associated with abscess or tumors.
These may occur anywhere on the body. Your veterinarian should be
consulted for treatment. Pictured above is a hamster with a
testicular abcess. This was treated easily with surgery.

Dentistry:
Hamsters, like all rodents, have front teeth (incisors) that grow
throughout their life and back or cheek teeth (molars) . If the incisors
do not wear properly, they may overgrow and cause severe problems as
pictured above. Signs of tooth problems include wetness around the
mouth, not eating or trying to eat but dropping the food, weight loss,
weakness and death. The teeth can trimmed or filed to the appropriate
length under anesthesia at the veterinarians office. This must be
done every 21 to 30 days when malocclusion is present. Do not attempt
this on your own.

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