Bearded Dragons

Care of Bearded Dragons

Paul M. Gibbons, D.V.M. AVBP (Avian)

 Natural History :  The two most common pet bearded dragons are Pogona vitticeps and P. barata.  They are found in the rocky, semi-desert areas of Australia and Tasmania .  Bearded dragons are ground dwellers, but will climb rocks and low branches.  They are active during daylight hours

 Special Characteristics:

Longevity:  In captivity, bearded dragons can live 7-10 years with proper care. They become sexually mature between 10 and 18 months. 

 Size:    Adults will reach a total length of 15-20 inches.

 Temperament:  Bearded dragons make wonderful pets.  They are generally very docile, and usually take well to handling.  They are curious and attentive to their surroundings.  Interesting behaviors include arm waving, head bobbing and digging. 

Captive Care Requirements: 

Lighting:  Ultraviolet B is required to maintain bearded dragons. The best source of UVB is the sun, but a special bulbs, (fluorescent and mercury vapor) can be purchased from a reptile shop.  The fluorescent bulb must be placed no more than 12 inches from the basking site, and should be on a timer to provide about 14 hours of daylight and 10 hours of darkness.  It must be replaced every 9 months, because even though visible light is emitted, the UVB fades.  Light bulbs with a screw-in attachment end (even those sold as “full-spectrum” bulbs) provide heat, but not UVB.  The only exception is the mercury vapor bulb.  These bulbs provide UVB and UVA radiation and heat.  They are somewhat more expensive but worth the money.  

 Temperature:  The daytime temperature of the tank should be between 80-85° F.  A lamp that emits heat should be placed above one end of the tank, providing a temperature gradient with one side of the tank warmer than the other.  Select the wattage of the bulb to provide the proper temperature within the tank.  Under tank heaters are useful to gently raise the overall temperature of the tank, but should be used with a thermostat or rheostat to accommodate changing ambient temperatures.  At night, the temperature should drop to 70-75° F.  When room temperatures are below 70° F. at night, use an under tank heater or a ceramic heat emitter.  Obviously, at least two thermometers must be in use to monitor these temperatures, and care must be taken to prevent burns to the lizard.  Heating elements can be dangerous if not used properly, and a smoke alarm is recommended.  A thermostat to control the temperature of your heat source is strongly recommended.

Humidity:  Good ventilation is essential, and the humidity should be moderate (40-60% RH). 

Water:  Provide a water pan that is large enough for the whole dragon to soak its body.  Lizards often defecate in their water, so it must be replaced daily and the pan disinfected at least once a week. 

 Enclosure:  Bearded dragons grow quickly, so it is best to start with a large enclosure.  A single adult bearded dragon will do well in a 75 or 120 gallon aquarium with a screen top.  When building an enclosure, it should be at least 48” long, 24” wide, and 18” high. It must be well ventilated and easy to disinfect. 

 Substrate:  The bottom of the enclosure should be covered with something safe and easy to clean.  Since bearded dragons will eat bedding made of small particles, do not use them.  Never use sand, wood chips or gravel.  Good choices include newspaper, thick felt, indoor/outdoor carpet, or if routine disposal is possible, potting soil.  

 Cage furniture:  Provide branches to climb, rocks to bask upon, and shelter to hide in.  Ideally a rock will be placed under the heat lamp that is above the under-tank heater.  Hardy plants like Sanseveria, aloe, palms and cycads may be used. 

 Feeding:  Bearded dragons require a varied diet.  They are omnivorous, and will eat a variety of items.  A salad of calcium rich leafy greens and other vegetables should be offered every other day.  The best greens include kale, collard greens, mustard greens, and dandelion greens.  Insects can make up a substantial portion of the diet as well.  Crickets, mealworms, and Zoophobas (king mealworms) are widely available and can be “gut-loaded”.  Earthworms are an excellent food item for your beardies.  Depending upon the size of the bearded dragon, insects should be chosen by size.  Hatchling dragons eat two-three week old crickets and adults will take six week old (full grown) crickets.  Infant mice (pinkies) should be offered once a week to dragons over four months of age.  Choose the age and size of mice according to the size of the lizard.  Always feed bearded dragons out of a dish to prevent ingestion of substrate. 

 Supplements: Juvenile bearded dragons require calcium (without added phosphorus/vitamin D) supplementation three times a week, and a high quality reptile multivitamin once a week.  These should be dusted on insects and sprinkled over salads.  Adult dragons on a good diet (leafy greens, “gut-loaded” insects, and pinkies) will do well with weekly calcium and monthly multivitamin supplementation.

 Grooming and Handling: Bearded dragons will learn to tolerate routine handling.  When handled on a daily basis, they seem to become more relaxed as time goes on, and cleaning the enclosure is simplified when the animal is docile.  Bearded dragon skin is very rough, so light gloves and long sleeves should be worn to protect against mild scratches.   Their toenails also become needle-sharp, and should be trimmed every few weeks.  Finally, because all reptiles are potentially infected with Salmonella bacteria, which can be transmitted from reptiles to humans, routine cleanliness and hygiene are essential.