Leopard Geckos
Care of Leopard Geckos
Paul
M. Gibbons, D.V.M, AVBP (avian).
Natural History:
Leopard geckos, Eublepharus macularius, are found in
Afghanistan
,
Pakistan
, and northwest
India
. They live on the ground in dry to semi-arid habitats where
temperatures fluctuate greatly between day and night.
They are active at night or during the twilight hours, but
will occasionally bask in sunlight.
Special Characteristics:
Longevity:
In captivity, leopard geckos have been known to live over
20 years with proper care. They become sexually mature between
16-24 months, but may not be ready to breed until their third
year.
Size: Hatchlings
are about 3 inches long, and adults can reach 12 inches total
length.
Temperament: Leopard
geckos make wonderful pets. The
are generally very docile, and can learn to accept handling.
They rarely bite, and tend to move slowly once acclimated
to their surroundings. They
tend to hide during daylight hours.
Anatomy: Leopard
geckos have eyelids that can blink.
They have toenails, and cannot climb glass.
Captive Cage Requirements:
Lighting:
Ultraviolet B is required to maintain healthy leopard
geckos. The best
source of UVB is the
sun, but special bulbs, (fluorescent or mercury vapor) can be
purchased from a reptile shop.
The flourescent bulb must be placed no more than 12 inches
from the basking site, and should be on a timer to provide about
14 hours of daylight and 10 hours of darkness.
It must be replaced every 6-9 months, because even though
the visible light is emitted, the UVB fades.
Light bulbs with a screw –in attachment end (even those
sold as “full spectrum” bulbs) provide heat, but not UVB.
The exception is the mercury vapor bulb.
It emits UVA and UVB radiation and heat.
These bulbs may be to intense for small gecko habitats but
will work well in large inclosures.
Temperature: The
daytime temperature of the tank should be between 80-86° F with a
basking spot of 88-90° F. A
heat lamp should be placed over one end of the tank, providing a
temperature gradient with one side of the tank warmer than the
other. Select the
wattage of the bulb to provide the proper temperature within the
tank. Under tank
heaters are useful to gently raise the overall temperature of the
tank, but should be used with a thermostat or rheostat to
accommodate changing ambient temperatures.
At night the temperature should drop to 70-75° F.
When room temperatures are below 68° F at night, use an
under tank heater or a red (infrared) bulb.
Obviously, at least two thermometers must be in use to
monitor these temperatures, and care must be taken to prevent
burns to the lizard. Heating
elements can be dangerous if not used properly, and a smoke alarm
is recommended. A
thermostat is strongly recommended to prevent over heating.
Humidity: Good
ventilation is essential, and the humidity should be moderate
(40-60%) for healthy skin shedding to occur.
Low humidity will cause improper shedding (dysecdysis),
which can lead to dead toes. Locally
humid spots can be created by misting under the hiding area
several times a week, or by placing a damp sponge within a
container placed inside an oversized shelter.
Water: Provide
a water dish that is large enough for the whole gecko to soak its
body. Lizards often
defecate in their water, so it must be replaced daily and the dish
disinfected at least once a week. Periodically,
fresh, warm water soaking is recommended to aid in shedding as
pictured below. The water should be shallow and never
leave your lizard alone while soaking.
Enclosure: A
20 gallon aquarium will be adequate for keeping up to a trio (one
male and two females) of leopard geckos if several hiding shelters
are available.
Substrate: The
bottom of the enclosure should be covered with something safe and
easy to clean. Since
geckos will eat bedding made of small particles, do not use them.
Never use sand, wood chips, mulch or gravel.
Good choices include newspaper, indoor/outdoor carpet,
thick felt, or if routine disposal is possible, peat moss or
potting soil. Although
many sources claim that sand is a safe substrate, it has been
found impacted within the stomach and intestines of leopard geckos
after death.
Cage furniture: Provide
low branches to climb, natural rocks to bask upon, and shelter to
hide in. Ideally a
rock will be placed under the heat lamp that is above the
under-tank heater. Hardy
plants like Sanseveria spp. (snake plants), Hawarathia
spp. (e.g.
aristocrat plant), small palms and figs may be used.
Do not simply stack rocks upon each other to form a
shelter, they are bound to crash and injure the lizard.
Feeding: Leopard
geckos require a somewhat varied diet.
They are mainly insectivorous, but will eat small rodents.
Crickets and mealworms are widely available and can be
“gut-loaded”. Earthworms
are a great protein source. Insects should be chosen by size.
Hatchling leopard geckos eat two-three week old crickets,
and adults will take six-week old (full grown) crickets.
Before “gut-loading” insects, always begin by offering
water, a high calcium chow, and dark green or orange vegetables
for at least 24 hours before feeding insects to the lizard.
Infant mice (pinkies) may be offered occasionally after the
gecko reaches one year of age, and can be useful to help condition
adults for breeding. Always
feed lizards in a dish to prevent ingestion of substrate.
Supplements: Juvenile
leopard geckos require calcium (without added phosphorus/vitamin D3)
supplementation three times a week, and a high quality reptile
multivitamin once a week. These
should be dusted on insects just before offering to the lizard.
Non-breeding adult leopard geckos will do well with weekly
calcium and twice monthly multivitamin supplementation.
Grooming and Handling:
Although best thought of as display specimens, leopard
geckos will learn to tolerate routine handling once they reach 6-8
months of age. When
handled regularly, they will begin to move more slowly and will
not struggle. Leopard
gecko skin is very delicate, so care must be taken to prevent
injuring the animal. Finally,
because all reptiles all are potentially infected with Salmonella
bacteria, which can be transmitted from reptiles to humans,
routine cleanliness and hygiene are essential.
Health: Young leopard geckos can
suffer from Secondary nutritional hyperparathyroidism (MBD).
They will have rubbery jaws and limbs. This problem is
related to improper diet and lighting. Retained toe sheds is
also a common problem. This retained skin must be gently
removed before it cuts off circulation to the toe tips.
Parasites of the intestinal tract can be a big problem. If
your gecko has diarrhea, it needs to be checked for internal
parasites. Most of these can be treated with
medication. The exception is cryptosporidium. Cryptosporidium
is a type of protozoan parasite that has become very common in
many leopard gecko colonies. There is no effective treatment
for it. Geckos usually are found with skinny tails and
diarrhea. Occasionally, the may vomit. Never mix new
geckos into established colonies until they have been checked out
and in quarantine for at least 6 months. Do not support the
crypto purveyors by purchasing sickly, skinny lizards such as the
one pictured above.
Thank you for giving us the opportunity to
provide helpful service to you and your pet. If you have any
questions, give us a call at 847-329-8709.
