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BONDING RABBITS; A BULLET POINT CHECKLIST


The domestic rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus domesticus)
  • From Europe originally
  • First kept as pets in the 1800’s (first as food source in first century)
    • Belgian Hares became popular in the US
  • Social animals that live in large warrens
  • Social Hierarchy present
  • Even though they are domestic, instinctive behaviors are still present
 
Rabbits Are Social Animals
  • Pairs are recommended
  • Companionship allows
    • Mutual Grooming
    • Security
    • Less likely to be destructive due to boredom
  • Male /Female bonds are easiest and recommended
    • Both rabbits should be spayed/neutered
    • Wait 30 days before beginning introductions
  • Bonding must be carefully done
  • Costs will increase
Bonding
  • Provide two separate pen units side by side need to be set up
    • Two exercise pens or habitats side by side where they can see, hear, smell and talk. Everything except TOUCH.
  • Towels or broom
    • In case a rumble breaks out
  • Neutral Territory
    • For closely monitored bonding time
  • Shelters have speed dating to find initial match
    • More time will be needed at home to ensure they bond
 
Once home from speed date
  • They cannot just live together yet
  • They need to build trust
  • Rabbits can and will fight to establish dominance and territory
  • You need to be the referee
  • These methods can be used if a pair bond is broken
  • It is never safe to leave rabbits alone together until the bond has been sealed
 
Bonding Behaviors
  • Ignoring each other
    • This is actually good
    • At least they aren’t fighting 
  • Chasing
    • Is natural and normal
    • Is used to establish dominance
    • Circling can be normal as well 
  • Mounting
    • Used to establish dominance
    • May result in bites to the underside (watch for annoyance)
    • Will continue throughout the relationship and be a sign of possession 
  • Nipping
    • OK as long as both bunnies are OK with it
    • You may see fur pulled or small bite wounds
    • This is part of establishing hierarchy
    • Stop them if they start moving in a tight circle or chasing tails
    • Serious damage follows this
    • Makes it hard for the damaged bun to trust the other
  • Mirroring
    • This is good
    • What one bun does, so does the other 
  • Mutual grooming
    • This is great!
    • They may start by sitting near each other and grooming themselves.
    • One bun will approach the other and put their head down – requesting grooming.
    • The other responds by grooming them, good bonding is occurring 
  • Bunny Flops and Binkies
    • Show trust during bonding 
  • Tail waggle
    • Is flirting behavior
  •  Thumping with back legs
    • Shows frustration- Bun is not getting what it wants
    • Bun wants attention now
  • Butt
    • Bun turns and shows you or the other rabbit it’s backside
    • Bun is not getting what it wants
    • Bun is disapproving of the situation 
  • Eating near the other Bun
    • Shows trust and not stressed
    • Always have food out during bonding sessions
 
Neutral Territory Needed
Never attempt bonding in an area that the buns live
Large space is needed – kitchen or similar
It can be the exercise area if nothing else is available
Always set up a pen.  This prevents them from getting under something and fighting
Provide greens and hay
 
How long should the date last?
For the unsure bond: 15-minute date and build up from there.
Slow and steady wins the race!
It takes time to build that trust bond.
You do not have to do a date every day
You can do two 15-minute dates a day ,or if things are going well do a long marathon session. Just use your judgement.
Some bonds will happen fast while others can take some time and TLC.
 
Helping the Bonding Process
  • Swapping
    • Changing back and forth between pens
    • They get used to each other’s odors
    • Obviously, they are not in the pens together
  • Swapping stuffed animals
    • For scenting and decoy to decrease territorial drive
    • This may be more important than the dating
    • Do it even if you cannot do the date every day
    • Great item to bring when spay/neuter time arrives (or any seperation)
 
Exercise
  • Bunnies still need exercise even if they aren’t getting along yet
    • Simply take turns
    • Use a barrier to protect noses from bites through pen bars
    • Litter box habits may not be great until they are bonded
  • Free Roamers
    • You need to purchase a pen
 
How can you help the process?
  • “Bunny Magic”
    • Place buns next to each other and pet them at the same time
    • This spreads their scent all over both of them
    • Do it at the end of each date
  • “The Standoff”
    • Buns face each other with their heads down
    • Give them both a scritch on the head if one doesn’t start grooming the other
  • Serious Fights
    • “Bunny Tornado”
      • Bun will have their tail up and ears back first
      • Followed by tight circling and biting
      • This must be stopped right away
      • Place the soft broom between them.  Yell if you have to
      • They will bite you so no hands
    • Assess damage.  Go to vet if in doubt
    • This results in a 2 weeks ban from dating
    • Continue the cage swap and stuffed animal swap
 
Trouble Still
  • Give them a larger space
    • Be sure it is neutral
    • 2 week ban until date but continue the swap

  • How long does bonding take?
    • Hard to predict but anywhere from immediate to many months
 
Older methods of bonding

  • Bathtub bonding, small cage in the back seat of the car
    • Considered stress bonding
    • No longer acceptable
    • Gentle method is best
 
Male/Male or Female/Female Pairs?
  • The easiest bondings are male / female
    • After bunnies are spayed and neutered it is easier to bond same sex rabbits.
  • A bromance ( male-male) bonding can happen.
    • It will be more difficult.  Best they be neutered before they meet.
    • You need to expect a longer courtship and be willing to put in a little more time.
  • Female/Female bond
    • Female-female bondings are the most difficult.
    • It is easier if they are litter mates or siblings.
    • Extra time and a longer courtship may be needed.
    • They may unbond for a time after the spay.  Get them together the day after the procedure and monitor.  Dominance may need to be re-established.
    • Follow the Bonding instructions
    • This combination rarely works out 

Are They Bonded yet? Here is your checklist:
  • Laying side by side
  • Grooming each other
  • Eating together
    • Provide 2 bowls to prevent jealousy
  • Using the same litter box
    • Nipping is common in the box
    • They may require two boxes
  • Playing together
  • Sleep and nap together

Move in Day

  • Clean the area well
  • Bowls, houses, blanket.  Use white vinegar
  • Rearrange everything to make it seem new
  • Still give them lots of space
  • Do it during daytime
  • This way you will know if it is going to work before the first night together
 
 
Other Behaviors Defined FYI
  • Binkies – jumping and spinning in the air
    • Happy bunny
  • Flop
    • Contented and comfortable
  • Grunting
    • Warning, Bunny trying to be fierce
  • Circling your feet
    • Means “I love you”
  • Chinning
    • Marking territory with chin glands
  • Soft vs loud teeth grinding
    • Soft grind is happy/content
    • Loud grind is discomfort
  • Nips
    • For attention, bunny isn’t getting something it wants
 
Much of this is taken from the good people at the Bonding Rabbits: A How to from Georgia HRS | House Rabbit Society
​

If you have any NON-EMERGENT questions, please feel free to call us at 847-329-8709
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  • Home
  • Emergency Care
  • Care Sheets
    • General Care >
      • Dilated Cardiomyopathy (DCM)
      • Heating Reptile Enclosures
      • Health Veggie Shopping for Reptiles
      • Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy
      • Metabolic Bone Disease Care
      • Vaccines in Exotic Animals
    • Birds >
      • Amazon Care
      • Avian Influenza Fact Sheet
      • Avian Influenza for Poultry Fact Sheet
      • Avian Bornavirus Testing
      • Budgie Care
      • Canaries
      • Chicken Care
      • Chronic Egg Laying
      • Cleaning and Disinfecting
      • Cockatiels (and other small Psittacines)
      • Cockatoo Care
      • ​Converting Your Bird to a Pelleted Diet
      • Feather Picking
      • General Parrot Care
      • Handfeeding Baby Parrots
      • Healthy Shopping for your Birds
      • Infectious Diseases of Parrots
      • Instructions for Physical Therapy in Birds
      • Lead Poisoning
      • McWatters Diet (Homemade Mash)
      • Macaw Care
      • Parrot Precautions
      • Polyoma Virus
      • Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease
      • Proventricular Dilatation Disease
      • Spiroform Pharangitis (Spirochetes)
      • Baby Starling and Sparrow guidelines
      • Territorial Aggression
      • Unsafe Plants for Birds
      • Weaning Baby Birds
      • What to Feed Your Pet Bird
      • Wing Injury and Rehabilitation
      • Wing Trims
      • Your Overly Reproductive Female Bird
      • Zinc Toxicity
    • Caiman Care
    • Ferret and Fox Care >
      • Your Ferret’s First Visit to the Vet
      • An Overview of Ferret Adrenal Disease
      • Chronic Diarrhea in Ferrets
      • Ferret Dentistry
      • Heart Disease in Ferrets
      • Heartworm Disease in Ferrets
      • Insulinoma in Ferrets
      • Lymphoma In Ferrets
      • Bob’s Chicken Gravy
      • Fennec Foxes
      • Red Foxes
    • Fish >
      • Algae in your Freshwater Aquarium
      • Eel Care
      • Freshwater Tropical Fish Care
      • Beginning a Freshwater Aquarium
      • Cleaning your Freshwater Aquarium
      • How to Feed your Fish
      • Aquarium Corals
      • Koi Care
      • General Goldfish Care
      • Hermit Crab Care
    • Invertebrate Care
    • Frogs, Toads, and Other Amphibians >
      • Argentine Horned Frogs
      • Bullfrog Care
      • Dart Frog Care
      • Feeding Pet Frogs and Toads
      • Fire Bellied Toad Care
      • Pixie Frog Care
      • Red Eyed Tree Frog Care
      • Short Tongue Syndrome
      • Tiger Salamander Care
      • Axolotl Care
      • White Lipped Tree Frog Care
      • White's Tree Frog Care
      • Ranavirus
    • Guinea Pigs and Rodents >
      • Chinchilla Care
      • Cuy Criollo (Giant Guinea Pig)
      • Health Problems with Guinea Pigs
      • Degu Care
      • Gerbil Care
      • Guinea Pig Care
      • Hamster Care
      • Diabetic Hamster Diet
      • Mice Care
      • Rat Care
      • Health Problems with Rats
      • Prairie Dog Care
      • Odontoma
      • Veggies For Guinea Pigs
      • Visible Tumors in Rodents
      • Vitamin C Deficiency In Guinea Pigs
    • Hedgehog Care >
      • Baby Hedgehog (Hoglet) Care
    • Kinkajoos and Armadillos >
      • Kinkajou Care
      • Nine Banded Armadillo Care
    • Lizards >
      • Anole Care
      • Bearded Dragon Care
      • Blue Tongued Skink Care
      • Crested Gecko Care
      • Geckos of New Caledonia
      • Crocodile Monitor Care
      • Frilled Lizard Care
      • Green Iguana Care
      • Jackson's Chameleon Care
      • Leopard Gecko Care
      • Nile Monitor Care
      • Old World Chameleon Care
      • Panther Chameleon Care
      • Red-Eyed Crocodile Skink Care
      • Savannah Monitor Care
      • Tegu Care
      • Thai Water Dragon Care
      • Uromastyx Care
      • Veiled Chameleon Care
    • Potbellied Pigs >
      • Pot Belly Pigs
      • Diamond Skin Disease
    • Rabbits >
      • Bonding Rabbits Bullet Point Checklist
      • Healthy Shopping for Rabbits
      • Complete Rabbit Care
      • Getting To Know Your New Bunny
      • Training Your Bunny
      • What To Feed Your Rabbit
      • Learning to Use the Litter Box
      • What To Expect From Your New Rabbit
      • Dental Disease in Rabbits
      • Heart Disease in Rabbits
      • Healthy Stool in Rabbits
      • Gastrointestinal Stasis in Rabbits
      • RHDV2 Fact Sheet
      • Parasites of Rabbits
      • Sore Hocks in Rabbits
      • Pasteurella in Rabbits
      • Medicating Your Rabbit or Guinea Pig
    • Snakes >
      • Amazon Tree Boa Care
      • Ball Python Care
      • Black Rat Snake Care
      • Boa Constrictor Care
      • Brazilian Rainbow Boa Care
      • Burmese Python Care
      • California Kingsnake Care
      • Cornsnake Care
      • Dumeril's Boa Care
      • Eastern Kingsnake Care
      • Emerald Tree Boa Care
      • Garter Snake Care
      • Green Tree Python Care
      • Western Hognose Care
      • Mexican Black Kingsnake Care
      • Rosy Boa Care
      • Sand Boa Care
      • Western Fox Snake Care
      • Inclusion Body Disease
    • Sugar Gliders and Marsupials
    • Turtles and Tortoises >
      • Alligator Snapping Turtle Care
      • Bell's Hingeback Care
      • Box Turtle Care
      • Chinese Box Turtle Care
      • Common Snapping Turtle Care
      • General Tortoise Husbandry
      • Leopard Tortoise Care
      • Mud Turtle Care
      • Musk Turtle Care
      • Painted Turtle Care
      • Red Eared Slider Care
      • Russian Tortoise Care
      • Soft Shelled Turtle Care
      • Sulcata Care >
        • Diet For Sulcata Tortoises
      • Common Health Problems
      • General Care of Aquatic Turtles
      • Redfoot tortoise Care
  • Contact
    • Referrals
  • Vets, Externs & Shelters
    • Xoran CT
    • Acupuncture and Chiropratic Medicine
    • Erchonia Laser
    • Vet Day Camp >
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      • Avian Hemotology
    • Shelters
    • Externships
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  • Products
  • Links
  • About Us
  • Chicago Exotics Blog
    • About Us April Fools Page
  • Happy Turtle Stories
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  • Lacy Act Summary