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White Lipped Tree Frog Care (Litoria infrafrenata)

by ​Erica Mede, CVT
Picture
Natural History

White lipped tree frogs, also called Giant tree frogs are native to Australia, New Guinea, and the Indonesian rainforest.  This species has become very popular in the herptoculture community because it is the world's largest tree frog at 3-5 inches in length, sometimes reaching slightly over 6 inches with the females being the largest!  These frogs have a distinctive creamy or whitish stripe along the lower lip that contrasts with their bright green bodies. Giant tree frogs typically live 10-15 years in captivity with some reaching 20.  They are most known for their unique vocalizations of cat like “meows” when they are on startled and their dog like bark while seeking a mate.

Feeding

White’s Tree frogs are insectivores and tend to become obese with over feeding like most frogs.  Adults are frequently fed earth worms, crickets, roaches, horn worms, silk worms, and pinkie mice (feed sparingly once or twice a month).  Giant tree frogs under 3 inches should be fed every day to every other day.  Frogs over 3 inches in length should be fed every 2-3 days. 

Placing the food in a dish or on a flat rock is an appropriate option.  Feeding with forceps is a very popular method as well.  Calcium supplementation should be added to the food weekly and a multivitamin supplement every 2 weeks.

Enclosures

These frogs can be housed in pairs or small groups of females with one males.  A  30 gallon aquarium or equivalent sized container such as a Sterilite or Rubbermaid bin is generally acceptable for two adults.  These are arboreal frogs and vertical space is important to consider.  Many keepers find that using non-conventional enclosure such as plastic storage boxes is not only easier to maneuver in their homes but also less stressful for the animal due to the opaque nature of the sides.  Juveniles under 3 inches can easily be maintained in a 10-15 gallon aquarium or similar sized plastic container.

Substrate

Paper towel is by far the easiest to clean and cheapest substrate to use.  However, it must be changed daily and doesn’t offer any aesthetics.  Top soil it a common substrate providing a naturalistic look to the enclosure.  Soil must be spot cleaned daily and completely changed out every 2 weeks to prevent bacteria and fungus build-up.  Moistened terry cloth towels are also utilized for substrate since they can be easily changed out.  However, a few back ups will be needed and the towels must be washed and dried WITHOUT fabric softener preferably.  The substrate needs to be moistened at all times with dechlorinated water.  Tap water that has been dechlorinated chemically or “aged” is perfectly fine.  Avoid distilled water due to the lack of minerals in the water.

Picture
Temperature

White lipped tree frogs can be easily maintained in 80-86°F ambient temperatures.  At night, the temperature can drop as low as 72°F.  Heating the enclosure is easily achieved using under tank heaters mounted on the side of the tank.  Heat cable, heat tape, and other methods of heating can be utilized as well.  Basking lights are contraindicated.  The temperature should be maintained with the use of a thermostat and monitored with a thermometer at the level of the substrate.  Sphagnum moss is an excellent way to keep frogs moist but care must be taken that it is changed frequently and is in a place where the frog will not accidentally ingest it attempting to eat.

Humidity

Humidity is extremely important to the health of tree frogs.  The humidity in the enclosure should be maintained around 55-70%.  This is easily checked with a hygrometer and maintained with a hydrostat.  Frequent misting, moistening of the substrate, large water bowls, and foggers can all be used to maintain higher levels of humidity.

Lighting

Giant tree frogs do not have many lighting requirements.  They require a light cycle of 10 hours of light and 14 of darkness.  An ultraviolet (UVB) light such as a ReptiGlo or a ReptiSun 5.0 can be utilized and is recommended.

Enrichment

Water bowls should be kept shallow to prevent accidental drowning as these frogs are extremely poor swimmers.  The water ideally should only be high enough for the frog to submerge itself if desired.  Water should be changed at least daily and only clean, dechlorinated water should be used.  Never use distilled water as this will cause health problems in frogs! Fake foliage such as silk leaves can be used without problems and pose the benefit of being easily cleaned.  Branches should be set in a way that allows climbing for these arboreal frogs.  Large pieces of cork bark provide excellent hiding places that help White lipped tree frogs feel more secure.

Sources and Suggested Reading
  • Frogs and Toads, Devin Edmonds
  • Frogs, Toads, and Treefrogs, Philip Purser

​If you have any questions, please feel free to call us at 847-329-8709.

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  • Home
  • Emergency Care
  • Care Sheets
    • General Care >
      • Dilated Cardiomyopathy (DCM)
      • Heating Reptile Enclosures
      • Health Veggie Shopping for Reptiles
      • Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy
      • Metabolic Bone Disease Care
      • Vaccines in Exotic Animals
    • Birds >
      • Amazon Care
      • Avian Influenza Fact Sheet
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      • Budgie Care
      • Canaries
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      • Chronic Egg Laying
      • Cleaning and Disinfecting
      • Cockatiels (and other small Psittacines)
      • Cockatoo Care
      • ​Converting Your Bird to a Pelleted Diet
      • Feather Picking
      • General Parrot Care
      • Handfeeding Baby Parrots
      • Healthy Shopping for your Birds
      • Infectious Diseases of Parrots
      • Instructions for Physical Therapy in Birds
      • Lead Poisoning
      • McWatters Diet (Homemade Mash)
      • Macaw Care
      • Parrot Precautions
      • Polyoma Virus
      • Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease
      • Proventricular Dilatation Disease
      • Spiroform Pharangitis (Spirochetes)
      • Baby Starling and Sparrow guidelines
      • Can smoke affect my bird?
      • Territorial Aggression
      • Unsafe Plants for Birds
      • Weaning Baby Birds
      • What to Feed Your Pet Bird
      • Wing Injury and Rehabilitation
      • Wing Trims
      • Your Overly Reproductive Female Bird
      • Zinc Toxicity
    • Caiman Care
    • Ferret and Fox Care >
      • Your Ferret’s First Visit to the Vet
      • An Overview of Ferret Adrenal Disease
      • Chronic Diarrhea in Ferrets
      • Ferret Dentistry
      • Heart Disease in Ferrets
      • Heartworm Disease in Ferrets
      • Insulinoma in Ferrets
      • Lymphoma In Ferrets
      • Bob’s Chicken Gravy
      • Fennec Foxes
      • Red Foxes
    • Fish >
      • Algae in your Freshwater Aquarium
      • Eel Care
      • Freshwater Tropical Fish Care
      • Beginning a Freshwater Aquarium
      • Cleaning your Freshwater Aquarium
      • How to Feed your Fish
      • Aquarium Corals
      • Koi Care
      • General Goldfish Care
    • Invertebrate Care >
      • Blue Death Feigning Beetle Care
      • Giant Vinegaroon Care
      • Asian Forest Scorpion
      • Hairy Desert Scorpion
      • Hermit Crab Care
      • Tarantula Care - Basic
      • Millipede care
    • Frogs, Toads, and Other Amphibians >
      • Argentine Horned Frogs
      • Bullfrog Care
      • Dart Frog Care
      • Feeding Pet Frogs and Toads
      • Fire Bellied Toad Care
      • Pixie Frog Care
      • Red Eyed Tree Frog Care
      • Short Tongue Syndrome
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      • Axolotl Care
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      • White's Tree Frog Care
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