Red Fox Care
Lindsay Mayer
Natural History
The red fox (Vulpes vulpes, to which we will be primarily referring throughout this guide) is known the world over and throughout history as clever, cunning, mischievous, tricksters, shapeshifters, and more. The earliest known identifiable ancestors of the modern fox are found in fossils as old as 3 million years ago, near the edges of human settlement in Hungary. It is theorized that the species is Eurasian in origin. Scientists have found that there are two distinct lines of fox that have been genetically separated by two separate glaciation events in North America. They fall under the umbrella of Canidae but are not closely related to domestic dogs and should never be expected to behave like a dog. Their introduction into the exotic pet trade is recent, and individuals kept as pets are considered to be “tame”, not domesticated. This means that while they may be able to get used to humans, they are not blindly trusting of humans like a puppy would be. This provides a challenging but rewarding bond of trust that must be established to have a positive relationship. They are solitary creatures and highly territorial, although they do mate for life. They generally have territorial “groups” that are associated with the dominant tod/vixen, who protect the territory and may permit up to 8 or so individuals to share the territory. Invaders are met with fierce opposition. Kits may choose to stay within their home territory or go off to find their own. In the wild the average lifespan is about 2 to 5 years, and about 10-15 years in captivity. Kits mature similarly to puppies, with soft, downy fur and floppy ears. Around 6-8 weeks of age, the kits are weaned off mother’s milk, and begin to explore the world. They are independent around 3-4 months of age and reach adult size around 6-7 months.
Foxes possess a wide range of physiological differences depending on age, sex, age, and geographic location. Males are called “tods” or “dogs”, and females are called “vixens”. The young are called “kits”. The largest of the Vulpes family, the average adult red fox is around 14-20” high at the shoulder and around 4-5 feet in length, including the tail, which can take up to half the total length of the body. Weights vary between 5 and 30 pounds, with females being about 15-20% smaller than males. Interestingly, accounting for size and mass, foxes are generally much lighter than dogs. The bones of Vulpes are about 30% lighter than those of the Canis genus. The fur ranges from red to black in color, changing with the seasons. Cold weather brings about the increase in melanin production as a means of absorbing warmth from the sun and maintaining body temperature, as well as an increase in length of the fur. Thus, you can have a fox with dark fur that is still a red fox! Arctic foxes also display this change in pigmentation, but in reverse, turning white in winter and darker in summer. This allows them to blend in with their environment more easily (snow = white, brown/black/gray = rocky terrain). They are much smaller than red foxes, have smaller, rounder ears, and are often more flighty and wary of humans. They are relatively new to the exotic pet trade and thus less well established.
The private keeping of foxes as pets is a recent development. It all started when a Russian scientist, Dmitri K. Belyaev started an experiment to attempt to domesticate the fox as an attempt to understand the physiological changes that occurred from the domestication of wolves. They separated more tolerant, curious foxes from the more aggressive, fearful foxes, bred both over several generations, and observed the results. Within just a few generations they found the first group to be accepting of humans, even going as far as to beg for affection or food, while the second group became much more feral and volatile. This experiment occurred over 40 generations of foxes – the result? A group of friendly, dog-like, “domesticated” foxes was born. Because of the state of the Russian economy in 1999, some foxes had to be sold for fur or as pets in order to maintain funding for research to continue. These are the ancestors of foxes that people keep as pets today.
The red fox (Vulpes vulpes, to which we will be primarily referring throughout this guide) is known the world over and throughout history as clever, cunning, mischievous, tricksters, shapeshifters, and more. The earliest known identifiable ancestors of the modern fox are found in fossils as old as 3 million years ago, near the edges of human settlement in Hungary. It is theorized that the species is Eurasian in origin. Scientists have found that there are two distinct lines of fox that have been genetically separated by two separate glaciation events in North America. They fall under the umbrella of Canidae but are not closely related to domestic dogs and should never be expected to behave like a dog. Their introduction into the exotic pet trade is recent, and individuals kept as pets are considered to be “tame”, not domesticated. This means that while they may be able to get used to humans, they are not blindly trusting of humans like a puppy would be. This provides a challenging but rewarding bond of trust that must be established to have a positive relationship. They are solitary creatures and highly territorial, although they do mate for life. They generally have territorial “groups” that are associated with the dominant tod/vixen, who protect the territory and may permit up to 8 or so individuals to share the territory. Invaders are met with fierce opposition. Kits may choose to stay within their home territory or go off to find their own. In the wild the average lifespan is about 2 to 5 years, and about 10-15 years in captivity. Kits mature similarly to puppies, with soft, downy fur and floppy ears. Around 6-8 weeks of age, the kits are weaned off mother’s milk, and begin to explore the world. They are independent around 3-4 months of age and reach adult size around 6-7 months.
Foxes possess a wide range of physiological differences depending on age, sex, age, and geographic location. Males are called “tods” or “dogs”, and females are called “vixens”. The young are called “kits”. The largest of the Vulpes family, the average adult red fox is around 14-20” high at the shoulder and around 4-5 feet in length, including the tail, which can take up to half the total length of the body. Weights vary between 5 and 30 pounds, with females being about 15-20% smaller than males. Interestingly, accounting for size and mass, foxes are generally much lighter than dogs. The bones of Vulpes are about 30% lighter than those of the Canis genus. The fur ranges from red to black in color, changing with the seasons. Cold weather brings about the increase in melanin production as a means of absorbing warmth from the sun and maintaining body temperature, as well as an increase in length of the fur. Thus, you can have a fox with dark fur that is still a red fox! Arctic foxes also display this change in pigmentation, but in reverse, turning white in winter and darker in summer. This allows them to blend in with their environment more easily (snow = white, brown/black/gray = rocky terrain). They are much smaller than red foxes, have smaller, rounder ears, and are often more flighty and wary of humans. They are relatively new to the exotic pet trade and thus less well established.
The private keeping of foxes as pets is a recent development. It all started when a Russian scientist, Dmitri K. Belyaev started an experiment to attempt to domesticate the fox as an attempt to understand the physiological changes that occurred from the domestication of wolves. They separated more tolerant, curious foxes from the more aggressive, fearful foxes, bred both over several generations, and observed the results. Within just a few generations they found the first group to be accepting of humans, even going as far as to beg for affection or food, while the second group became much more feral and volatile. This experiment occurred over 40 generations of foxes – the result? A group of friendly, dog-like, “domesticated” foxes was born. Because of the state of the Russian economy in 1999, some foxes had to be sold for fur or as pets in order to maintain funding for research to continue. These are the ancestors of foxes that people keep as pets today.
Legality
Before considering a fox, be sure to thoroughly research your state and local laws pertaining to ownership of native species. In Illinois, ownership of a red fox or arctic fox is legal as long as the owner carries a “fur-bearing license”, purchasable through the DNR. Fennec foxes do not require a license (see Fennec Fox caresheet) to own.
Never bring your fox to places like pet stores, dog parks, etc. This is for their protection and yours -- if your fox becomes scared and bites someone or their dog, the government can legally euthanize your fox and submit it for rabies testing, regardless of vaccination status. The best thing to do is to avoid the situation altogether, as it will only be stressful for your fox, the other people, and the other dogs. Dogs and foxes, as mentioned above, can also swap illnesses back and forth, so bringing your fox to these places is unwise for medical reasons as well.
Behavior & Training
Foxes are generally crepuscular and nocturnal in the wild, spending most of their waking hours during early morning, evening, and nighttime. The cover of night allows them to hunt and scavenge more effectively. Because of this, they have excellent eyesight and extremely sharp reflexes. With time, your fox will likely adjust to your schedule, but don’t be surprised if they sleep most of the day, like cats. It is not recommended to attempt to introduce foxes to other animals, especially animals that would naturally be hunted by the fox -- cats, rabbits, rodents, and birds are all potential targets for your fox’s curiosity, and these animals should never be allowed to interact, for safety. Dogs and cats can potentially coexist, but never unsupervised and never without many instances of slow, carefully supervised introduction. The best course of action is to not have any other animals if you plan to own a fox or keep them in entirely separate areas. Not only will this keep your other pets safe, but it will also keep your prey species from being stressed by the constant smell of a predator.
These animals are solitary with the exception of breeding, and fox pairs mate for life. Some foxes will get along with one another, but this must be done with extreme caution and extremely slowly. They are extremely territorial and protective of their space and anything they deem “theirs” -- fights over territory often end in bloodshed in the wild, and to your fox, though captive bred, it makes no difference. Always be prepared that two foxes may never be friendly with each other.
If you wish to train your fox to walk on a leash, this should be started right away from a young age, first by acclimating to wearing a harness, and then slowly incorporating the leash. You may want to consider a harness versus a collar for safety and to minimize escapes. Do not be discouraged if your fox does not ever become acclimated to the leash. NEVER use a retractable leash with your fox! You must be in control at all times. You are responsible for the safety of your fox and the safety of everyone around you.
Foxes have the potential to be litter trained, but don’t be surprised if yours never takes to litter boxes -- this means a lot of urine and feces around your house! They will not seek out litter boxes, nor will they bury their waste, so you must take the time to teach them appropriate elimination behaviors. Never scold your fox or “rub their nose” in their waste; positive punishment, the process of adding a negative stimulus (verbal or physical force) to discourage a behavior, has proven to be far less effective than positive reinforcement and will only make your fox fear you, promoting aggression. The type of bond you want to foster is one of trust -- it is hard to gain the fox’s trust, and very easy to lose it. Always use positive reinforcement techniques when teaching your fox new behaviors. Remember, the fox is only doing what foxes are born to do, so you must teach them how to live with humans. Small pieces of food go a long way with short, frequent sessions. Always make your training sessions fun for your fox! Foxes are “tricksters” by nature and love to solve a good puzzle, especially if that game involves food. They are emotionally sensitive creatures and respond poorly to yelling or force. This will break your bond and you may not be able to regain that trust.
Foxes, unlike dogs, have not been fully domesticated and therefore have not been bred to please humans -- the fox aims to please himself, and you must convince him that there is a good reason to cooperate. Forming a bond of trust early on in your fox’s life is the foundation upon which your relationship will flourish or flounder. Do not compare your fox to a dog in terms of training. It will likely take a lot longer to train your fox, but it is vital to set boundaries from kit-age in order to give you both a happy, healthy life.
Before considering a fox, be sure to thoroughly research your state and local laws pertaining to ownership of native species. In Illinois, ownership of a red fox or arctic fox is legal as long as the owner carries a “fur-bearing license”, purchasable through the DNR. Fennec foxes do not require a license (see Fennec Fox caresheet) to own.
Never bring your fox to places like pet stores, dog parks, etc. This is for their protection and yours -- if your fox becomes scared and bites someone or their dog, the government can legally euthanize your fox and submit it for rabies testing, regardless of vaccination status. The best thing to do is to avoid the situation altogether, as it will only be stressful for your fox, the other people, and the other dogs. Dogs and foxes, as mentioned above, can also swap illnesses back and forth, so bringing your fox to these places is unwise for medical reasons as well.
Behavior & Training
Foxes are generally crepuscular and nocturnal in the wild, spending most of their waking hours during early morning, evening, and nighttime. The cover of night allows them to hunt and scavenge more effectively. Because of this, they have excellent eyesight and extremely sharp reflexes. With time, your fox will likely adjust to your schedule, but don’t be surprised if they sleep most of the day, like cats. It is not recommended to attempt to introduce foxes to other animals, especially animals that would naturally be hunted by the fox -- cats, rabbits, rodents, and birds are all potential targets for your fox’s curiosity, and these animals should never be allowed to interact, for safety. Dogs and cats can potentially coexist, but never unsupervised and never without many instances of slow, carefully supervised introduction. The best course of action is to not have any other animals if you plan to own a fox or keep them in entirely separate areas. Not only will this keep your other pets safe, but it will also keep your prey species from being stressed by the constant smell of a predator.
These animals are solitary with the exception of breeding, and fox pairs mate for life. Some foxes will get along with one another, but this must be done with extreme caution and extremely slowly. They are extremely territorial and protective of their space and anything they deem “theirs” -- fights over territory often end in bloodshed in the wild, and to your fox, though captive bred, it makes no difference. Always be prepared that two foxes may never be friendly with each other.
If you wish to train your fox to walk on a leash, this should be started right away from a young age, first by acclimating to wearing a harness, and then slowly incorporating the leash. You may want to consider a harness versus a collar for safety and to minimize escapes. Do not be discouraged if your fox does not ever become acclimated to the leash. NEVER use a retractable leash with your fox! You must be in control at all times. You are responsible for the safety of your fox and the safety of everyone around you.
Foxes have the potential to be litter trained, but don’t be surprised if yours never takes to litter boxes -- this means a lot of urine and feces around your house! They will not seek out litter boxes, nor will they bury their waste, so you must take the time to teach them appropriate elimination behaviors. Never scold your fox or “rub their nose” in their waste; positive punishment, the process of adding a negative stimulus (verbal or physical force) to discourage a behavior, has proven to be far less effective than positive reinforcement and will only make your fox fear you, promoting aggression. The type of bond you want to foster is one of trust -- it is hard to gain the fox’s trust, and very easy to lose it. Always use positive reinforcement techniques when teaching your fox new behaviors. Remember, the fox is only doing what foxes are born to do, so you must teach them how to live with humans. Small pieces of food go a long way with short, frequent sessions. Always make your training sessions fun for your fox! Foxes are “tricksters” by nature and love to solve a good puzzle, especially if that game involves food. They are emotionally sensitive creatures and respond poorly to yelling or force. This will break your bond and you may not be able to regain that trust.
Foxes, unlike dogs, have not been fully domesticated and therefore have not been bred to please humans -- the fox aims to please himself, and you must convince him that there is a good reason to cooperate. Forming a bond of trust early on in your fox’s life is the foundation upon which your relationship will flourish or flounder. Do not compare your fox to a dog in terms of training. It will likely take a lot longer to train your fox, but it is vital to set boundaries from kit-age in order to give you both a happy, healthy life.
Housing
Foxes generally do not do well as indoor-exclusive pets. They must have an outdoor enclosure where they can spend their time when they are not with you. Foxes are endlessly curious and are natural scavengers as well as hunters and will make their own fun -- typically by destroying any items they find interesting (your clothing, your couch, your walls, your doors, your garbage, etc…). Thus, having a safe and enriching enclosure for your fox is a must. Never crate your fox, even for short periods of time, as they do not take well to crates the fox will likely injure itself attempting to escape, further contributing to behavioral problems and negative associations with you and the home. An indoor pen is also just a large crate and is not an acceptable alternative to a large outdoor enclosure. If you are unable to provide at least a minimal outdoor enclosure, carefully consider if a fox is appropriate for your lifestyle. Never leave a fox tied outside. One must understand that foxes have a massive territory size that they patrol every day in the wild, so a 30-minute walk once or twice a day will not be sufficient. Rural foxes have a territory of approximately 500-1500 acres (city foxes have somewhere around 150 acres they patrol), which they protect fiercely from invaders. They have active minds and need lots and lots of mental stimulation to be happy.
An appropriate enclosure is spacious, secure, and enriching. The fox needs to have room for exploration, foraging, climbing, and sleeping. Consider the enclosures you may have seen at zoos and nature parks -- you will aim to recreate something similar. The minimum size for an appropriate enclosure is approximately 8 feet wide x 6 feet tall x 12 feet long. Foxes are impeccably clever, as is true to the folk tales, and will meticulously search every corner of the enclosure for inadequacies that they can exploit. You will likely never find your fox again if it escapes! A reinforced underground metal wall (such as hog panels) at least 4 feet underground will help to deter digging escapes. Alternatively, making a concrete base is more permanent, less labor intensive, and easier to clean with a regular garden hose. Also, excellent climbers, a completely enclosed sheet metal or chain link top is necessary. A determined fox will crawl, bite, or scratch through a fabric or mesh ceiling with ease. Ensure your fox is protected from the elements by providing a “den” within the enclosure (as simple as a large rubbermaid tote with an entry cut into it, or as elaborate as a custom doghouse). The bottom of the enclosure can be whatever you choose, but ease of cleaning is a priority. Astroturf or cement/paving is easiest, but some choose to incorporate some natural turf for enrichment. Be aware that any natural substrate in the enclosure will be a breeding ground for parasites. Solid privacy walls on at least one section of the enclosure are appreciated by foxes both for safety (young foxes are often predated upon by birds of prey) and protection from wind/snow. The entire enclosure (especially the den) can be lined with straw for warmth and changed daily as it becomes soiled. The perimeter should always be secured with a sturdy padlock to protect from wildlife and stray dogs (and, occasionally, unwelcome humans).
The most important thing besides security for a fox is enrichment! These creatures are portrayed as mischief makers and tricksters for a reason and will challenge you every chance they get. Foraging toys are some of the best options, and toys that evoke the sense of smell are also stimulating. Tunnels, climbing surfaces, platforms, and branches are all great choices. Rotate enrichment regularly to keep your fox from getting bored. Take some time to research what other fox keepers have created for their pets and collect ideas. Always ensure that the materials you use are easy to clean, cannot be ingested, and will not cause injury to your fox. CLICK HERE to have a look at this excellent example of safety and enrichment, created by the Cleveland Museum of Natural History:
Housing
Foxes generally do not do well as indoor-exclusive pets. They must have an outdoor enclosure where they can spend their time when they are not with you. Foxes are endlessly curious and are natural scavengers as well as hunters and will make their own fun -- typically by destroying any items they find interesting (your clothing, your couch, your walls, your doors, your garbage, etc…). Thus, having a safe and enriching enclosure for your fox is a must. Never crate your fox, even for short periods of time, as they do not take well to crates the fox will likely injure itself attempting to escape, further contributing to behavioral problems and negative associations with you and the home. An indoor pen is also just a large crate and is not an acceptable alternative to a large outdoor enclosure. If you are unable to provide at least a minimal outdoor enclosure, carefully consider if a fox is appropriate for your lifestyle. Never leave a fox tied outside. One must understand that foxes have a massive territory size that they patrol every day in the wild, so a 30-minute walk once or twice a day will not be sufficient. Rural foxes have a territory of approximately 500-1500 acres (city foxes have somewhere around 150 acres they patrol), which they protect fiercely from invaders. They have active minds and need lots and lots of mental stimulation to be happy.
An appropriate enclosure is spacious, secure, and enriching. The fox needs to have room for exploration, foraging, climbing, and sleeping. Consider the enclosures you may have seen at zoos and nature parks -- you will aim to recreate something similar. The minimum size for an appropriate enclosure is approximately 8 feet wide x 6 feet tall x 12 feet long. Foxes are impeccably clever, as is true to the folk tales, and will meticulously search every corner of the enclosure for inadequacies that they can exploit. You will likely never find your fox again if it escapes! A reinforced underground metal wall (such as hog panels) at least 4 feet underground will help to deter digging escapes. Alternatively, making a concrete base is more permanent, less labor intensive, and easier to clean with a regular garden hose. Also, excellent climbers, a completely enclosed sheet metal or chain link top is necessary. A determined fox will crawl, bite, or scratch through a fabric or mesh ceiling with ease. Ensure your fox is protected from the elements by providing a “den” within the enclosure (as simple as a large rubbermaid tote with an entry cut into it, or as elaborate as a custom doghouse). The bottom of the enclosure can be whatever you choose, but ease of cleaning is a priority. Astroturf or cement/paving is easiest, but some choose to incorporate some natural turf for enrichment. Be aware that any natural substrate in the enclosure will be a breeding ground for parasites. Solid privacy walls on at least one section of the enclosure are appreciated by foxes both for safety (young foxes are often predated upon by birds of prey) and protection from wind/snow. The entire enclosure (especially the den) can be lined with straw for warmth and changed daily as it becomes soiled. The perimeter should always be secured with a sturdy padlock to protect from wildlife and stray dogs (and, occasionally, unwelcome humans).
The most important thing besides security for a fox is enrichment! These creatures are portrayed as mischief makers and tricksters for a reason and will challenge you every chance they get. Foraging toys are some of the best options, and toys that evoke the sense of smell are also stimulating. Tunnels, climbing surfaces, platforms, and branches are all great choices. Rotate enrichment regularly to keep your fox from getting bored. Take some time to research what other fox keepers have created for their pets and collect ideas. Always ensure that the materials you use are easy to clean, cannot be ingested, and will not cause injury to your fox. CLICK HERE to have a look at this excellent example of safety and enrichment, created by the Cleveland Museum of Natural History:
Vital Statistics
Diet
Foxes are omnivorous with a predilection toward meat. In the wild they are opportunistic hunters and scavengers, flourishing on the edges of human civilization by rummaging through trash and other rubbish. Occasionally they will eat berries off bushes. For complete and balanced nutrition, we recommend Mazuri Exotic Canine Diet as a staple, which you can supplement with whole prey for enrichment and variety, offering small amounts of fruits and vegetables as treats. Because they are not dogs, they should not be fed dog food, as their needs are different. Foxes tend to stash their food in various places all over their enclosure/your house, so always ensure any fresh food is disposed of promptly!
Never feed your fox chocolate, grapes, raisins, avocados, green potatoes, green eggplant, tomatoes, onions, garlic, seeds, and nuts, or “human food/junk food”. Never give dairy products, caffeine, or alcohol!
Vaccinations & Preventions
Because they are classified as a sub-family of Canidae (Vulpes) and they can contract most of the same diseases as domestic dogs. One such example is heartworm disease -- a catastrophically damaging parasite that takes up residence in the blood, heart, and lungs. The damage these parasites cause to the heart and other organs is irreversible, so a little bit of prevention is quite literally worth a pound of cure. Foxes can be treated with the same heartworm and flea preventions as dogs, but always be aware that its use will be off label, as with all exotic medicine. NEVER use any over the counter products for heartworm/flea prevention, as they have been proven to be ineffective and unsafe. Instead, consult your exotic vet regarding which medication is right for your pet. We recommend monthly Heartgard to prevent heartworm disease (transmitted by mosquitoes) and Revolution topically to prevent ectoparasites.
All foxes should receive a complete series of distemper-parvovirus vaccine and rabies vaccine, as required by law. This can begin as early as 6 weeks of age and booster appointments must be given every 2-4 weeks (as directed by your veterinarian) until at least 14-16 weeks of age. Foxes can react negatively to certain formulations of distemper vaccine, so it is always vital to visit an experienced exotic vet for all your fox’s needs. They are NOT the same as dogs, and a standard cat/dog clinic will not possess the information required for optimum health and wellness, nor the permits to handle such an animal.
It is strongly recommended to have a microchip placed to protect your pet in the event that they escape. This can be placed during the time of spaying/neutering while your pet is under anesthesia.
Spaying & Neutering
We recommend spaying or neutering your fox once they reach 4-6 months of age. Spaying (females) or neutering (males) can prevent undesirable behavioral problems and reproductive disease. In males, behaviors like urine marking, territorial aggression, and humping can be decreased or eliminated. In females, reproductive cancers, urine marking, and territorial aggression can also be decreased or eliminated.
Foxes are omnivorous with a predilection toward meat. In the wild they are opportunistic hunters and scavengers, flourishing on the edges of human civilization by rummaging through trash and other rubbish. Occasionally they will eat berries off bushes. For complete and balanced nutrition, we recommend Mazuri Exotic Canine Diet as a staple, which you can supplement with whole prey for enrichment and variety, offering small amounts of fruits and vegetables as treats. Because they are not dogs, they should not be fed dog food, as their needs are different. Foxes tend to stash their food in various places all over their enclosure/your house, so always ensure any fresh food is disposed of promptly!
Never feed your fox chocolate, grapes, raisins, avocados, green potatoes, green eggplant, tomatoes, onions, garlic, seeds, and nuts, or “human food/junk food”. Never give dairy products, caffeine, or alcohol!
Vaccinations & Preventions
Because they are classified as a sub-family of Canidae (Vulpes) and they can contract most of the same diseases as domestic dogs. One such example is heartworm disease -- a catastrophically damaging parasite that takes up residence in the blood, heart, and lungs. The damage these parasites cause to the heart and other organs is irreversible, so a little bit of prevention is quite literally worth a pound of cure. Foxes can be treated with the same heartworm and flea preventions as dogs, but always be aware that its use will be off label, as with all exotic medicine. NEVER use any over the counter products for heartworm/flea prevention, as they have been proven to be ineffective and unsafe. Instead, consult your exotic vet regarding which medication is right for your pet. We recommend monthly Heartgard to prevent heartworm disease (transmitted by mosquitoes) and Revolution topically to prevent ectoparasites.
All foxes should receive a complete series of distemper-parvovirus vaccine and rabies vaccine, as required by law. This can begin as early as 6 weeks of age and booster appointments must be given every 2-4 weeks (as directed by your veterinarian) until at least 14-16 weeks of age. Foxes can react negatively to certain formulations of distemper vaccine, so it is always vital to visit an experienced exotic vet for all your fox’s needs. They are NOT the same as dogs, and a standard cat/dog clinic will not possess the information required for optimum health and wellness, nor the permits to handle such an animal.
It is strongly recommended to have a microchip placed to protect your pet in the event that they escape. This can be placed during the time of spaying/neutering while your pet is under anesthesia.
Spaying & Neutering
We recommend spaying or neutering your fox once they reach 4-6 months of age. Spaying (females) or neutering (males) can prevent undesirable behavioral problems and reproductive disease. In males, behaviors like urine marking, territorial aggression, and humping can be decreased or eliminated. In females, reproductive cancers, urine marking, and territorial aggression can also be decreased or eliminated.
If you have any questions, please feel free to call us at 847-329-8709.