CHICAGO EXOTICS ANIMAL HOSPITAL
  • Home
  • Emergency Care
  • Care Sheets
    • General Care >
      • Dilated Cardiomyopathy (DCM)
      • Heating Reptile Enclosures
      • Health Veggie Shopping for Reptiles
      • Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy
      • Metabolic Bone Disease Care
      • Vaccines in Exotic Animals
    • Birds >
      • Amazon Care
      • Avian Influenza Fact Sheet
      • Avian Influenza for Poultry Fact Sheet
      • Avian Bornavirus Testing
      • Budgie Care
      • Canaries
      • Chicken Care
      • Chronic Egg Laying
      • Cleaning and Disinfecting
      • Cockatiels (and other small Psittacines)
      • Cockatoo Care
      • ​Converting Your Bird to a Pelleted Diet
      • Feather Picking
      • General Parrot Care
      • Handfeeding Baby Parrots
      • Healthy Shopping for your Birds
      • Infectious Diseases of Parrots
      • Instructions for Physical Therapy in Birds
      • Lead Poisoning
      • McWatters Diet (Homemade Mash)
      • Macaw Care
      • Parrot Precautions
      • Polyoma Virus
      • Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease
      • Proventricular Dilatation Disease
      • Spiroform Pharangitis (Spirochetes)
      • Baby Starling and Sparrow guidelines
      • Can smoke affect my bird?
      • Territorial Aggression
      • Unsafe Plants for Birds
      • Weaning Baby Birds
      • What to Feed Your Pet Bird
      • Wing Injury and Rehabilitation
      • Wing Trims
      • Your Overly Reproductive Female Bird
      • Zinc Toxicity
    • Caiman Care
    • Ferret and Fox Care >
      • Your Ferret’s First Visit to the Vet
      • An Overview of Ferret Adrenal Disease
      • Chronic Diarrhea in Ferrets
      • Ferret Dentistry
      • Heart Disease in Ferrets
      • Heartworm Disease in Ferrets
      • Insulinoma in Ferrets
      • Lymphoma In Ferrets
      • Bob’s Chicken Gravy
      • Fennec Foxes
      • Red Foxes
    • Fish >
      • Algae in your Freshwater Aquarium
      • Eel Care
      • Freshwater Tropical Fish Care
      • Beginning a Freshwater Aquarium
      • Cleaning your Freshwater Aquarium
      • How to Feed your Fish
      • Aquarium Corals
      • Koi Care
      • General Goldfish Care
    • Invertebrate Care >
      • Blue Death Feigning Beetle Care
      • Giant Vinegaroon Care
      • Asian Forest Scorpion
      • Hairy Desert Scorpion
      • Hermit Crab Care
      • Tarantula Care - Basic
      • Millipede care
    • Frogs, Toads, and Other Amphibians >
      • Argentine Horned Frogs
      • Bullfrog Care
      • Dart Frog Care
      • Feeding Pet Frogs and Toads
      • Fire Bellied Toad Care
      • Pixie Frog Care
      • Red Eyed Tree Frog Care
      • Short Tongue Syndrome
      • Tiger Salamander Care
      • Axolotl Care
      • White Lipped Tree Frog Care
      • White's Tree Frog Care
      • Ranavirus
    • Guinea Pigs and Rodents >
      • Chinchilla Care
      • Cuy Criollo (Giant Guinea Pig)
      • Health Problems with Guinea Pigs
      • Degu Care
      • Gerbil Care
      • Guinea Pig Care
      • Hamster Care
      • Diabetic Hamster Diet
      • Mice Care
      • Rat Care
      • Health Problems with Rats
      • Prairie Dog Care
      • Odontoma
      • Veggies For Guinea Pigs
      • Visible Tumors in Rodents
      • Vitamin C Deficiency In Guinea Pigs
    • Hedgehog Care >
      • Baby Hedgehog (Hoglet) Care
    • Kinkajoos and Armadillos >
      • Kinkajou Care
      • Nine Banded Armadillo Care
    • Lizards >
      • Anole Care
      • Bearded Dragon Care
      • Blue Tongued Skink Care
      • Crested Gecko Care
      • Geckos of New Caledonia
      • Crocodile Monitor Care
      • Frilled Lizard Care
      • Green Iguana Care
      • Jackson's Chameleon Care
      • Leopard Gecko Care
      • Nile Monitor Care
      • Old World Chameleon Care
      • Panther Chameleon Care
      • Red-Eyed Crocodile Skink Care
      • Savannah Monitor Care
      • Tegu Care
      • Thai Water Dragon Care
      • Uromastyx Care
      • Veiled Chameleon Care
    • Potbellied Pigs >
      • Pot Belly Pigs
      • Diamond Skin Disease
    • Rabbits >
      • Bonding Rabbits Bullet Point Checklist
      • Healthy Shopping for Rabbits
      • Complete Rabbit Care
      • Getting To Know Your New Bunny
      • Training Your Bunny
      • What To Feed Your Rabbit
      • Learning to Use the Litter Box
      • What To Expect From Your New Rabbit
      • Dental Disease in Rabbits
      • Heart Disease in Rabbits
      • Healthy Stool in Rabbits
      • Gastrointestinal Stasis in Rabbits
      • RHDV2 Fact Sheet
      • Parasites of Rabbits
      • Sore Hocks in Rabbits
      • Pasteurella in Rabbits
      • Medicating Your Rabbit or Guinea Pig
    • Snakes >
      • Amazon Tree Boa Care
      • Ball Python Care
      • Black Rat Snake Care
      • Boa Constrictor Care
      • Brazilian Rainbow Boa Care
      • Burmese Python Care
      • California Kingsnake Care
      • Cornsnake Care
      • Dumeril's Boa Care
      • Eastern Kingsnake Care
      • Emerald Tree Boa Care
      • Garter Snake Care
      • Green Tree Python Care
      • Western Hognose Care
      • Mexican Black Kingsnake Care
      • Rosy Boa Care
      • Sand Boa Care
      • Western Fox Snake Care
      • Inclusion Body Disease
    • Sugar Gliders and Marsupials
    • Turtles and Tortoises >
      • Alligator Snapping Turtle Care
      • Bell's Hingeback Care
      • Box Turtle Care
      • Chinese Box Turtle Care
      • Common Snapping Turtle Care
      • General Tortoise Husbandry
      • Leopard Tortoise Care
      • Mud Turtle Care
      • Musk Turtle Care
      • Painted Turtle Care
      • Red Eared Slider Care
      • Russian Tortoise Care
      • Soft Shelled Turtle Care
      • Sulcata Care >
        • Diet For Sulcata Tortoises
      • Common Health Problems
      • General Care of Aquatic Turtles
      • Redfoot tortoise Care
  • Contact
    • Referrals
  • Vets, Externs & Shelters
    • Xoran CT
    • Acupuncture and Chiropratic Medicine
    • Erchonia Laser
    • Vet Day Camp >
      • Heart Supplement Formula
      • Avian Hemotology
    • Shelters
    • Externships
    • Jobs
  • Products
  • Links
  • About Us
  • Chicago Exotics Blog
    • About Us April Fools Page
  • Happy Turtle Stories
  • Tour
  • ADV Testing Information
  • Lacy Act Summary

Uromastyx Care (Uromastyx sp.)

​Erica Mede, CVT
Photos by Susan Horton, DVM
Picture
Description

Uromastyx are also called Dab lizards, Spiny Tailed lizards, Uros, and Agamids.  These medium sized herbivores are quickly gaining popularity in the pet trade due to their unique appearance and interesting diet.  There are 13 different species of Uromastyx, but only six species are currently kept.  Uromastyx aegypticus (Egyptian uromastyx) and U. ornatus (Ornate uromastyx) are two of the most commonly kept in the United States . 
Egyptian uromastyx are the largest of the species reaching 25-30 inches in length from the tip of the head to the tip of the tail.  This species has a light to dark brown coloration.  Ornate uromastyx reach an average size of 10-18 inches with various browns, yellows, orange, green or blue coloration.  All of species have a bulky body and a characteristic triangular shaped head.  The iconic spiny tail has between 10 and 30 rows of spiked scales on top of the tail.  This lizard is not capable of “dropping” its tail.  These lizards generally live for 15-20 years and reach adult size by four years old.
 
Natural History

Uros are found through out the arid regions of north western India down to the Sahara in Africa .  They are naturally occurring in rocky outcrops and burrow several feet below the surface during the hottest portions of the day to decrease body temperature as well as increase humidity.  This is a diurnal species of lizard that is best kept in an environment that simulates the hot, arid, and bright environment they would naturally be found in.
 
Feeding and Diet

Uros are strict herbivores.  There is always debate in the reptile community whether or not to offer a few insects every now and then but there has been no proven benefit to this practice.  In the wild, these animals relish vegetation and ingestion of insects is accidental.  Dark leafy greens such as dandelion greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, spring mix, etc, should be offered once a day.  Shredded yellow, orange, and red vegetables can be added as well.  Uromastyx are unique in their preference for small seeds such as millet and lentils.  Lentils are easily sprouted using a damp wash cloth.  Dry lentils can be offered as well and are generally eaten with equal enthusiasm. 
Some owners opt to feed a pellet based diet in addition to the dark leafy greens.  Excellent choices to feed are Mazuri tortoise, grass land tortoise pellet, and iguana pellet.  Pellet diets should not be the bulk of the diet and should be offered 1-2 times a week.  All Uros should have their meals dusted with a calcium supplement and a multi-vitamin supplement used once to twice a week. 
This species does not drink large amounts of water.  Greens should be offered after soaking or heavy misting with water to ensure proper hydration.

PictureA young male yellow saharan uromastyx (Uromastyx geyri).
Enclosure

These lizards are terrestrial although they can climb low level branches.  Uromastyx are diggers by nature and if given the chance will dig several feet down.  This species is extremely active and will require large amounts of floor space.  Hatchlings can be easily housed in a 20 gallon aquarium or enclosure of a similar size although they will quickly require larger accommodations.  As Uros grow they will need a 40 gallon breeder tank or larger (keeping in mind floor space is important) or a custom enclosure.  It is recommended to create a custom enclosure, especially for the Egyptian uromastyx that offers more space for these larger lizards and can handle the high heat.  It is highly recommended to offer an enclosure that is roughly 5-6 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 2 feet tall for adults.  Uromastyx require space to roam and sprawl out.  Make sure that all enclosures are sturdy and escape proof.  Enclosures will also need to withstand intense heat as well.  Various levels created using rocks and branches will help the lizard utilize all potential space and provide enrichment.
 
Substrate
​

There are numerous substrates to offer in enclosures ranging from complicated naturalistic set-ups to simplistic newspaper.  Newspaper, although unattractive to look at, is easily cleaned out and Uros genuinely seem to appreciate hiding under the layers of paper.  Butcher paper can be used as a uniform color alternative.  Since Uros enjoy burrowing and will spend most of their time hidden under the substrate if allowed, they seem to benefit from the addition of dig boxes.  Dig boxes are designated areas or enclosed sections of top soil that can go as much as 2 feet deep!  These boxes allow the Uromastyx to fulfill natural desires to dig as well as offer another form of enrichment.  The dig box should be on the cooler end. 
If particulate substrate is desired, millet is best.  This allows for digging, ease of cleaning, and is edible. However, if the lizard focuses on eating only the millet and not its regular diet, a change in substrate will need to be made. 

 
Water
 
Dr. Horton does prefer to have a small dish of water available at all times.  This is particularly important for young uros, breeding females, and compromised or sick individuals.  A shallow soaking dish should be provided. Post egg deposition females will drink gratuitously once they have laid their egg clutches.  Healthy uromastyx will get most of the water they need from their diet.

PictureA male (left) and female (right) Mali uromastyx (Uromastyx maliensis).
Lighting

UVB lighting is required not only to prevent calcium deficiencies but to simulate the bright natural habitat of these lizards.  Exposure to one or two ReptiSun 10.0 bulbs is recommended for 12-14 hours a day.  At night, there should be no visible lights on.

Heating

All heat sources should ideally be kept on a thermostat that allows for proper gradients while offering piece of mind to owners as well.  A thermometer should be placed ideally one inch above the substrate on the cooler end of the enclosure.  Another thermometer should be placed once inch above the substrate on the warmer end of the enclosure and the one last thermometer at the basking site.
 
Uromastyx can happily be housed in ambient temperatures ranging from 80°F to 100°F.  A range of temperatures should be provided to these lizards.  Ambient temperatures can easily be maintained utilizing under tank heaters, heat cable (only on the outside of the enclosure), heat tape, heat bulbs, ceramic heat emitters, and heat emitting panels.  The basking site should be maintained between 105°F and 110°F ideally.  At night, the enclosure should never fall below 65°F.
 
Humidity

Too much humidity can kill this species.  It is important to maintain humidity at 10-35% with a humid burrow box that reaches 40-45%. 
 
Enrichment

Creativity is essential for excellent Uro keeping.  Tree trunks, tree branches, and root stocks make excellent obstacles, hides, rocks, and climbing surfaces.  Make sure that all climbing surfaces are more horizontally angled as they are not necessarily agile climbers especially as they get older.  Dig boxes are essential for working out extra energy and allowing for natural behaviors.  Although a hide box is offering a place to retreat, this is a form of enrichment as well.  A hide box should be offered on the cooler side of the enclosure and can be a simple opaque container that is larger than the lizard with a tunnel of PVC or corrugated drain pipe leading to the entrance of the box.  To create the entrance of the box simply cut a hole large enough for the lizard to enter into on the side that will be facing the tube or piping. 
 
Health
 
Your new uromastyx should be checked for parasites before being introduced to your existing colony and in general for it's own well being.  This is done simply by checking a fresh fecal with your veterinarian.
 
Your lizard should appear plump and well muscled.  If you can see ribs or bones of the pelvis, this is cause for alarm.  A complete physical should be performed by a reptile veterinarian.  Female lizards will slow down or quit eating just before egg deposition.
 
Retained shed skin on the toes or the tail can also be signs of ill health.  These should be gently removed after warm water soaking.  If the skin seems compromised in any way, consult your reptile vet.

​If you have any questions, please feel free to call us at 847-329-8709.​

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.
  • Home
  • Emergency Care
  • Care Sheets
    • General Care >
      • Dilated Cardiomyopathy (DCM)
      • Heating Reptile Enclosures
      • Health Veggie Shopping for Reptiles
      • Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy
      • Metabolic Bone Disease Care
      • Vaccines in Exotic Animals
    • Birds >
      • Amazon Care
      • Avian Influenza Fact Sheet
      • Avian Influenza for Poultry Fact Sheet
      • Avian Bornavirus Testing
      • Budgie Care
      • Canaries
      • Chicken Care
      • Chronic Egg Laying
      • Cleaning and Disinfecting
      • Cockatiels (and other small Psittacines)
      • Cockatoo Care
      • ​Converting Your Bird to a Pelleted Diet
      • Feather Picking
      • General Parrot Care
      • Handfeeding Baby Parrots
      • Healthy Shopping for your Birds
      • Infectious Diseases of Parrots
      • Instructions for Physical Therapy in Birds
      • Lead Poisoning
      • McWatters Diet (Homemade Mash)
      • Macaw Care
      • Parrot Precautions
      • Polyoma Virus
      • Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease
      • Proventricular Dilatation Disease
      • Spiroform Pharangitis (Spirochetes)
      • Baby Starling and Sparrow guidelines
      • Can smoke affect my bird?
      • Territorial Aggression
      • Unsafe Plants for Birds
      • Weaning Baby Birds
      • What to Feed Your Pet Bird
      • Wing Injury and Rehabilitation
      • Wing Trims
      • Your Overly Reproductive Female Bird
      • Zinc Toxicity
    • Caiman Care
    • Ferret and Fox Care >
      • Your Ferret’s First Visit to the Vet
      • An Overview of Ferret Adrenal Disease
      • Chronic Diarrhea in Ferrets
      • Ferret Dentistry
      • Heart Disease in Ferrets
      • Heartworm Disease in Ferrets
      • Insulinoma in Ferrets
      • Lymphoma In Ferrets
      • Bob’s Chicken Gravy
      • Fennec Foxes
      • Red Foxes
    • Fish >
      • Algae in your Freshwater Aquarium
      • Eel Care
      • Freshwater Tropical Fish Care
      • Beginning a Freshwater Aquarium
      • Cleaning your Freshwater Aquarium
      • How to Feed your Fish
      • Aquarium Corals
      • Koi Care
      • General Goldfish Care
    • Invertebrate Care >
      • Blue Death Feigning Beetle Care
      • Giant Vinegaroon Care
      • Asian Forest Scorpion
      • Hairy Desert Scorpion
      • Hermit Crab Care
      • Tarantula Care - Basic
      • Millipede care
    • Frogs, Toads, and Other Amphibians >
      • Argentine Horned Frogs
      • Bullfrog Care
      • Dart Frog Care
      • Feeding Pet Frogs and Toads
      • Fire Bellied Toad Care
      • Pixie Frog Care
      • Red Eyed Tree Frog Care
      • Short Tongue Syndrome
      • Tiger Salamander Care
      • Axolotl Care
      • White Lipped Tree Frog Care
      • White's Tree Frog Care
      • Ranavirus
    • Guinea Pigs and Rodents >
      • Chinchilla Care
      • Cuy Criollo (Giant Guinea Pig)
      • Health Problems with Guinea Pigs
      • Degu Care
      • Gerbil Care
      • Guinea Pig Care
      • Hamster Care
      • Diabetic Hamster Diet
      • Mice Care
      • Rat Care
      • Health Problems with Rats
      • Prairie Dog Care
      • Odontoma
      • Veggies For Guinea Pigs
      • Visible Tumors in Rodents
      • Vitamin C Deficiency In Guinea Pigs
    • Hedgehog Care >
      • Baby Hedgehog (Hoglet) Care
    • Kinkajoos and Armadillos >
      • Kinkajou Care
      • Nine Banded Armadillo Care
    • Lizards >
      • Anole Care
      • Bearded Dragon Care
      • Blue Tongued Skink Care
      • Crested Gecko Care
      • Geckos of New Caledonia
      • Crocodile Monitor Care
      • Frilled Lizard Care
      • Green Iguana Care
      • Jackson's Chameleon Care
      • Leopard Gecko Care
      • Nile Monitor Care
      • Old World Chameleon Care
      • Panther Chameleon Care
      • Red-Eyed Crocodile Skink Care
      • Savannah Monitor Care
      • Tegu Care
      • Thai Water Dragon Care
      • Uromastyx Care
      • Veiled Chameleon Care
    • Potbellied Pigs >
      • Pot Belly Pigs
      • Diamond Skin Disease
    • Rabbits >
      • Bonding Rabbits Bullet Point Checklist
      • Healthy Shopping for Rabbits
      • Complete Rabbit Care
      • Getting To Know Your New Bunny
      • Training Your Bunny
      • What To Feed Your Rabbit
      • Learning to Use the Litter Box
      • What To Expect From Your New Rabbit
      • Dental Disease in Rabbits
      • Heart Disease in Rabbits
      • Healthy Stool in Rabbits
      • Gastrointestinal Stasis in Rabbits
      • RHDV2 Fact Sheet
      • Parasites of Rabbits
      • Sore Hocks in Rabbits
      • Pasteurella in Rabbits
      • Medicating Your Rabbit or Guinea Pig
    • Snakes >
      • Amazon Tree Boa Care
      • Ball Python Care
      • Black Rat Snake Care
      • Boa Constrictor Care
      • Brazilian Rainbow Boa Care
      • Burmese Python Care
      • California Kingsnake Care
      • Cornsnake Care
      • Dumeril's Boa Care
      • Eastern Kingsnake Care
      • Emerald Tree Boa Care
      • Garter Snake Care
      • Green Tree Python Care
      • Western Hognose Care
      • Mexican Black Kingsnake Care
      • Rosy Boa Care
      • Sand Boa Care
      • Western Fox Snake Care
      • Inclusion Body Disease
    • Sugar Gliders and Marsupials
    • Turtles and Tortoises >
      • Alligator Snapping Turtle Care
      • Bell's Hingeback Care
      • Box Turtle Care
      • Chinese Box Turtle Care
      • Common Snapping Turtle Care
      • General Tortoise Husbandry
      • Leopard Tortoise Care
      • Mud Turtle Care
      • Musk Turtle Care
      • Painted Turtle Care
      • Red Eared Slider Care
      • Russian Tortoise Care
      • Soft Shelled Turtle Care
      • Sulcata Care >
        • Diet For Sulcata Tortoises
      • Common Health Problems
      • General Care of Aquatic Turtles
      • Redfoot tortoise Care
  • Contact
    • Referrals
  • Vets, Externs & Shelters
    • Xoran CT
    • Acupuncture and Chiropratic Medicine
    • Erchonia Laser
    • Vet Day Camp >
      • Heart Supplement Formula
      • Avian Hemotology
    • Shelters
    • Externships
    • Jobs
  • Products
  • Links
  • About Us
  • Chicago Exotics Blog
    • About Us April Fools Page
  • Happy Turtle Stories
  • Tour
  • ADV Testing Information
  • Lacy Act Summary